HERO STORIES....

Chinnychinchin
December 2006
Ok enough of the pain and carnage.......Describe your ABSOLUTE BEST session ever.......the one thats stands out as your best, all-time, mind warping session, filled with barrels, ramps and/or glory........

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30 Replies

Sidebar
December 2006
a couple stand out. Back wave corner in Mbos almost two years ago. Way out at the back. Huge swell coming through. Drop into this bomb- freefall forever - land on the face, dig the rail in for a right - get about ten seconds of warp speed and the monster closes out on me. Absolutely mind blowing. Peeps at Cafe Orca called the NSRI who came zooming on the beach, about four 4x4s and an ambulance. Me and Jeandre had just gotten out to walk around Slabbers to go back in and we had to explain to these okes that we were the only ones out and we were going back in. A chick from the surf school later told Jeandre that she had seen my wave and it was easily three times higher than me when I was dropping straight down the face. Im almost 2 metres tall so that gives you a face of 6 metres plus.
Believe it or not.
Then a while back went to the BB clinic with Spencer Skipper in Mbos and he showed me what I was doing wrong and how I could get more speed. Next day went to Gassies. Glassy with huge Barrelling rights. Made it out of two monster barrells. I was so stoked.

Havent surfed for two months now - slave to the dollar- soon Ill re- prioritise my life and get my fat ass in the water.
ollie69
December 2006
Had the best session ever at North beach

Pitching in a huge westerly in front of the pier, actually running left towards Dairy..Id never had conditions like that befor, and i havent had them since.

4 feets round and hollow..lowish tide me and my mate on it...barrels holding up in the wind meaning we were making everything no matter how deep we took off.

dropping in rushing through a pit and then busting lazy inverts or what ever we fancied...it was giving us such a section.off the best ramps ever...

we were hooting and looking how high we could get....it was awesome....

That stands out and also a weekend in scottburgh in 1999...absolute pefection for 3 days...

still makes me smile

Anyway there is min happening in scotland just chasing the pound ....
Elementree
December 2006
Corner or Shark Bay as my friend likes to call it, has the sickest wave...surfed there for the first time about a month ago - i've been living in and around MKBos my entire life, but never surfed it.

Cool thing about it is that the guys who are riding out there are pretty effing good, so if you aren't having a good one, they won't let you have any waves...best to bring your A game.

I haven't had a cooking surf in ages...up here on the West Coast we seem to be screwed as far as banks go...i need to get outta town a bit more.
BOWL GROM
December 2007
one session i had... perfect 3 foot north beach with sick bowls lining up with me and 4 people out... either pull in or boost... did 12 ars's in 2 hours amongst others....

one week at north beach with postcard perfedtion and nice size... epic

airblocks up the coast a week ago with no1 else out... perfect left and right a frames

numerous perfect sessions at plett wedge and farbowl and dairy
Jared Houston
December 2007
Caves a few years back.
Conned my buddies into going through with tales of 5ft perfection.
We arrived to find it 2ft,onshore and a contest.miff.
Paddledout anyway.
Ended up surfing for 8hours straight that day,as the tide dropped so did the wind,the swell jumped massively to around six feet and everyone packed up and went home.
It was amazing.
First time i surfed Tant will always remain in my memory too.
Still the best i have ever surfed or seen it.
Insane.
Then theres this spot on the south coast mmmmmmmm.
Wonderfulness.
Jmo
December 2007
Anyone notice that Bowl Grom's post was a year later than the previous post to the day?
Just a random cool moment for the Sixty40 forum geeks.

Continue as you were...
Jared Houston
December 2007
woah bru.i didnt notice that!
that NINJA kid
December 2007
Going to live in a house on the beach at GREENPOINT for a week for a mates birthday and only surfing the point once because of the solid wests but but still loving life and scoring the gnarliest shorey ever (IF you were there you know) every mornign and arvo on the high-tide.

The full on dozen groms in a beach-house lifestyle and crazy sand ridden close-outs of that week made me a shorey rat for life and probably began the addiction!
lyle
December 2007
i did a road trip to PE about 3 months back. scored awsome waves(3-4 feet barreling! id never seen this in PE before- not that i go there often.) and we also scored hectic parties!!

good times!!!!
Elementree
December 2007
Twas a session i had at Gassies in 98....flip thats almost 10 years ago...Nooit i'm showing my age.

My mates and i camped out, got there to be greeted by solid storm swell, muching 6 - 8 foot death balls. Paddled out, got one or two and stupidly decided to go DK on the first wave of the sets...didn't do much and landed up pulling off. Turned to see my mates paddling towards a killer clean up set...they just made it, but i got caught about a meter infront of the frothing beast...i got munched big time, bounced off the floor a couple of times and did some serious damage to my equipment(boogie equipment!)
The worst was a tear in my suit...right below the zip about 15cm long...i was bleak!

Still had a great time that night - watched my mates get hammered, spaded the ladies, played dodge'em with the cows - don't ask!

Woke up the next morning to find Gassies going off...first wave i saw broke perfectly left and right and gassed out of both sides...perfect glassy 4 - 6 foot Gassies, light offshore breeze...6am...heaven!

Surfed all day in my torn suit...had the best waves ever, only myself and i think 4 of my mates...only other guy who came paddled out and snapped his board after a couple of waves.

Thats one of the only times in my life when i have been able to see my wetsuits brandname reflecting back at me from the water...i live in Cape Town what do i expect?

Sure there have been plenty of great surfs, but that one will always be with me...

*i think i might have posted this a while ago
Spy Dude
December 2007
i went to muizenberg once and did a hand drag spinner
dcmike
December 2007
Haha Spy! You make me laugh! I surfed Krans about a year ago in 1 foot but I didn't care. There was a photo shoot of some semi naked babe on the beach and I had the best seat in the house. I don't think I even caught a wave that day!
Spy Dude
December 2007
I just had 2 Lindt Lindor chockys for dessert after lunch... absolute hero!
mmmmm lovvveee Lindt.
Chilternburt
December 2007
couple stand out sessions with all my mates back in SA at North Beach during that freak year when Ross and the NF crew were in Durban, it went off just about every day for 3 weeks solid, and i just remember surfing with all the guys and getting some sick barrels, good times!!!!
Lea
December 2007
G-land : August 2006
solid 7, 8 f glassy perfection. The most beautiful waves I've ever seen. Once out, drifting in the big blue I was overcome by awe. The art of the sea forming these hollow pits..
I was defo stretched and challenged by the size and the crowd and the power and the grinning reef that's just waiting for you to make one wrong move. doubt wasn't an option. I knew that I have to go, even more since if i pull out and waste one wave the crowd won't let me have another one.. but mostly because I knew the first wave might be the scariest, but it will also be the most memorable. And it was..
After the first one, i had a dozen more and it turned out to be the best session of my life.. so far
The next day was a bit bigger and slightly more messier and being all amped to get out - we didn't want fo high tide fo rthe boat to take us out, so we paddled. Colin v Dongen and i got dragged out to sea. Man, let's just say i was really praying hard..All i remember was paddling my heart out , sometimes imagining how we dissapear into the distance with no help.. It felt like hours, was probably not. Didn't even get a wave. Eventually we got somewhere. After trying to figure out what other way in there was except for the way over the impact zone and gnarley reef..
I always wondered why the people in the movies kiss the land after being like shipwrecked or something.. that day i found out. We sat on the beach exhausted but in one piece and totally grateful to still be alive.. I dont' think I would be if it wasn't for colin's encouragement and 'paddle we almost there' shouts all the way..
Ja, so those were bot pretty memorable sessions..
that NINJA kid
December 2007
As a random side-line, Chilternburt made me think, I turned 17, on a Friday and skipped school to surf town all day on my own and met Spencer Skipper (stopped dead with my mouth hanging open after running through my head tryna figure out why he looked so familiar! He just laughed)
Got fun bowls all day,got one deep, sandy brown far-bowl barrel, so dark one of the older guys told me I must have used a candle to find my way out, and then all my mates came down after school and while I didn't surf with them down at Wedge I scored 4 foot outside Bay sooooooo good, fun barrels and sections, and I remember seeing Sihle get the cleanest 1 handed in and out I've ever seen...

Man, what a great day!

And for Spy, dude, you need a lindt promoter-girl for a girlfriend! I have more Lindors than I can eat!
Spy Dude
December 2007
These okes beat all your (and mine) hero stories by like a gazillion miles.

Let it load, watch in awe and remeber to pick your jaw off the ground.

If you ever thought you had balls (that goes for you too lea) you aint seen nothing yet.

Click and behold....
cue drum roll......
ta ta da daaaaaaaaaa..............

http://www3.telus.net/eugene_k/wall_scratchin.htm
Spy Dude
December 2007
Ninja kid... this ones for you bru

Suck on my chocolate salty balls.
Put em in your mouth and suck emâ€¦.
that NINJA kid
December 2007
hahahahahahaha!
Jmo
December 2007
Holy crusty snotballs, those ous in the video are mental!
So sick.

I hear that there is a group of these flying suit jumpers that are aiming to design a suit that they are able to land without using a parachute... crazy stuff.
MichelleDaniels
December 2007
Who needs a suit when your trusty board will do just fine?

HAHAHAHA!
RandomRocker44
January 2008
ah dont you just love it when you still rubbing sleep out your eyes when you arrive at the beach and the sand is still cold and when you walk over the dunes you got these bloody marvelously fantastic beauty glassy green 4-6 foot wedges lazily rolling onto the beach just beggin you to carve the shit out of that face
StJohnLombard_Bodyboarder
January 2008
Went camping at yellow sands from friday last week and got back yesterday.

Only had 3 days of good swell. Monday Tuesday and Wednesday.

Heavy west winds 3 days solid. About a 4 foot swell, with about a 7, 8 foot face on monday morning.

Woke up at 4. Dragged my ass outta my tent, suited up and walked down to the beach( about 50m away from my camp site )

Sat on the sand and watched the sun rise over the bay. By 4:35 it was just light enough to see the swell and it was a nice swell. Hollow rights and slower, not so hollow BUT fun lefts into the river mouth. Water still dirty from the previous east winds. Swell Looked about 3 foot from the beach.

By 4:40 i was in the water and sitting backline waiting for some sets, I was greeted by sets of about an 8 foot face easy!! had 2 waves and paddled back out, It was 5am now and there were birds diving all round me, and about 11 dolphins 5m away jumping and playing in the swell One bumped me off my board! i shat myself! I was still the only one out, but 3 surfers had arrived at point( 10, 12 foot face swell EASY! A little too intimidating for me Razz Had some nice right rides, with some pretty steep drop ins.. Exclamation

by 5:30 a surfer arrived, He had left point as it was getting pretty huge....
Friendly long boarder, about 50yo. We were sitting and chatting when all of a sudden he says "Oh Shit" i turn around to see one mother of a back wave Surprised already feathering and about to start breaking. We were about 6m away from it and i was paddling my ass off i was gonna be too late, so i started paddling left to try get to the section that hadn't formed yet, and as i come up to it i hit the bowling section of the swell, as i attempt a duckdive it sucks me up and smashes me under.... I was under for about 9secs and i honestly thought i was gonna drown, But I surfaced next to the surfer, Who was laughing his ass off at me... Anyway we had some more awesome waves, I timed a couple of them wrong and had some pretty sick wipe outs. By now it was 6:45 and 2 more surfers got in. and by now it was fully light. and i could tell it was gonna be a hot day.. but i decided to ignore the sun and carry on without putting cream on my face. By 8am the bay was getting too crowded for me. 5....6 people were in. and i prefer to surf alone. so i moved over to the far left hand site of the bay in front of the rock, A little spot called secret lefts( The larger sets end up here, and the sets come through with like a 5sec period between each swell, so you catch the last one of the set to avoid getting smashed by the rest. )and surfed on my own there for an hour or two before 2 people decided to invade my water space I put up with them and carried on with my surf. Had some awesome rides, Lots of duckdiving.

By 11am the I could really feel the sun frying my skin but i stayed in the water....

I got out the water at 4pm that evening... Tired sore. and badly sun burnt.....

But all in all it was the best bodyboarding day of my life
Chilternburt
January 2008

that NINJA kid wrote:
As a random side-line, Chilternburt made me think,

glad I inspire someone...
Spy Dude
January 2008
had to scroll up to get that one
bwwahahahhahah

ninja kid can think -- wow go figure
koslovski001
January 2008
Was some time last year... I was cruising along looking for some surf and bam, there it was. A perfect 6 foot face as hollow as they come and peeling of perfect lefts and rights.

I had to surf this, so I got back into my car raced home to pick up my gear, got back to derdes and to my surprise what was an empty parking lot was now so full that I had to park 200m down the road, so I park suit up and mission down, I get there and everybody was just sitting on the side, then one of the sets came rolling in ... OMG what was 6 foot had magically bumped up another 3 foot or so and still perfect.

Not paying attention, I get myself into the water and paddle off in between the impact zones... u know how it gets with the sand bars, and the next thing I know I find myself in out in the biggest surf I have ever been in, I look around and find that there are only a handful of guys out there, anyway so there I am in a pretty crazy situation, adrenalin rushing, heart pounding I paddle into a monster, it felt as if the drop took for ever, I eventually get to the bottom and dig my rail hard and get set for the most insane barrel of my life, it felt like and eternity sitting in that hollow cave of thunder and the next thing I knew I was out and this monster spits behind me.

I take another 2 waves of equal stature and on my 4th wave of the day, I dropped in and the next thing I got hit in the head by a fat lip... there we go the board and time for a little ground and bound. I find myself washed up on the beach and where I spent the remainder of the day watching in aw and recovering.
JAMES bye
February 2008
howsit guys...

I rate we should start up this post again cos its always rad to hear about other peoples awsome sesions...

I rate my best session was in these past december hols... was in cape town and decided to hit caves... after the walk down to the beach i reailsed that it was pretty big and that no one else was out... it was just me an a mate so we decided to paddle out... we get halfway out and a wave pops up... my mate decides to take it... so there i am paddling out all alone at caves in like 6 foot solid close-outs.

I got out and just chilled for like 10 mins (alone my mate decided to ditch me) ... finaly a good clean looking one popped up and i decided to take it... it formed up and closed out over me and i went straight over the falls... i got so worked... my mate seeing this got all amped up and decieded to paddle back out... we met up out back and surfed for like another 2 hours untill we were sick of getting worked almost every time. so we decided to leave... I still have the scars on my knees from the sandband... but it was worth every second.
craigtrilivas
February 2008
My mate Jason and I were surfin camps bay shorey a few yrs back at a solid 6ft , breakin way below sea level and P*#s shallow.
At first it was the usual,take a few build up the confidence then start takin the big ones.
We were getting sick and way wide barrels till we started getting a lil more confident and started doin sum crazy kuk.
And yes we both got a bit stoopid.

I saw him take off on a beast set but b4 I could see where he ended up I turned my head and had to deal with the mother of all freak sets Neptune had conjured up for me.
It was startin to peel already and i was pretty far away but I didnt stop scratchin.
The could see the damn thing was gonna close out the bay!!!!
I just made the 1st 2 bastards and the 3rd,even tho it looked like the sea god's throne, it had such awsome shape and promise that i thought i could maybe get sum of the sickest and thickest tube time of my life b4 she ate me.
So i decided to drop into the bomb.

I raced along the face,cranked a badass bottomturn and set myself up...........then in a moment of pure retardedness I thought to myself "wow,imagine how much air i could get if i actually hit this mother?"
I guessed i could hit it and land in sum foam maybe and not get too hurt.

So i started to ascend.
I was trying to go for an air reverse or a backflip and got caught in 2 minds, hit it wrong and ended up doin a cajung mactwist backflip!!!!!
I landed on my pip and got the werking of my life.
When i landed i felt my neck rip and bones tweak and crack and my life flashed b4 my eyes.
I remember thinking" jeez so this is it hey....its actually quite peacefull".
WTF!!!!!!!

Next thing I know im washed up onto the beach and as i open my eyes and spit out the saltiest water outta my ears,nose & mouth and lurch a lil,I see Jason lying next to me.

I tune hime "BOET!!!!!!!! I landed on my head and just nearly frikkin drowned and died!!!!!!
He tune me back "me too boet!!! Me too!!!
We both started laughing hysterically for a while.

We then went to Lincoln and hooked up one of their sweet chicken subs,a 500ml coke in the glass bottle and lit up a entjie.

JISLAAIKIT.
Stoked to ride another one
koslovski001
February 2008
craigtrilivas ....

dude that is a legend story, laughed my ass off while reading it, I've had King Neptune deal me the same hand too...

Keep on keeping on
craigtrilivas
February 2008
LOL!!!
Shot bro.
I actually laugh everytime i think about it.
Just the look on both of our faces knowing that we just came from an inch of our lives.
Woulda made an epic comedy scene

Ja Neptune is a good oke but damn he can get cranky.

B kiff.

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