While you okes are on the subject of tides and swell etc, could anyone explain to me to correct measurement of a wave face and swell. I have heard many conflicting theories of what a "foot" height or length is. some say a boogers foot isbigger than a surfers foot and that a foot (in reality 12.5 inches) is actually double when measuring a wave. is swell measured in meters (as in the newspapers) and face in feet.
basically u go down to the beach and if its super small u say its 1 or maybe 2ft.. when its a kief wave where a nugget(surfer) can get a crouching barrel on u say its 3ft. if the waves look sizy and pretty big 4 the average joe id say its 4-5ft.. thats where the men start 2 get seperated from the boys!! 6ft is the normal big swell. 7ft is hardly ever use unless u want to sound like a legend on ur 8ft session.. this is cause 8ft is pretty damn big.. after 8ft u use 2measurements and no halfmeasures.. 10ft is double overhead and 15ft is triple for nugget's. sizes never used for some reason is 11, 13 and 17ft..like most people dont surf bigger then 20ft in south africa, so we wont go into details.. people never use specific measurements, they always say "dude thats gnarly 8-10ft peaks brah" go figger..
jbs March 2006
pretty nicely summed up there!
Peter Lambert March 2006
Classic... but I still really like the 12ft and 14ft measures (usually used to describe the size of the wave that hit Aadam on the head) .... sadly theses measuring units don't get busted out too often enough.
jaykotze April 2006
please let me know how that wave meter thing and the size of waves work it realy is greek to me and i really want to know wat is poting
please let me know how that wave meter thing and the size of waves work it realy is greek to me and i really want to know wat is poting