WHOOHOO!!!
After the worst summer we have had in years here in EL we finally had waves! The whole weekend long!!!
Friday I scored Eastern Beach. Fat barrels every where. Phat rips as well though.
Sat was choppy and kak.
Sunday, Nahoon Beach, which is usually for beginners, had the longest biggest barrels I ever did see. Was paradise! Once the tide got too high it went back to being the same old flat surfers wave.
And yesterday. Yesterday I hit an out of town spot- was it good! On the low there was no one out. Just super big (4-5 foot) closeout bombs!! I got pounded so hard by one that it looked like I had been bitch slapped one my one side of my face! Was all red and stinging! As the tide came in they started to run. BIG FAT PERFECT BARRELS!!! Then it got to high and went flat and all the stand-ups were on it.
What a weekend!!
