If I have to surf Strand one more time i'm going to pop a hernia! You paddle your ass off to get out to the backline (which seems to go further and further back as you get there), then when you finally catch a wave you "drop into" the wave, look down the line and suddenly realise the wave has decided to fade.
Sorry just de-moer-in. I hope get to Betties neighbourhood this weekend.....if the swell is still around.....whoooooooooooooohoooooooooooooo!
