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OZZIES CHARGING!


  • September 2008
    Wahooo just came across this ... not sure if you owes have checked it yet... wish we had waves like this here to charge! but then how many SA owes would charge this??! Id be game....and peter would go ;)

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Bodyboarding 3,190 views

33 Replies


  • September 2008
    oh wait dont forget the young 17yr old grommy Jake Stone also getting some coverage. Any young guns out in Africa that would take this on instead of just derdersteen ;)

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  • September 2008
    goto here for the exclusives to tease us.... the rest will be in the next Riptide with the good shots ;)

    http://riptidemag.com.au/index.php?opti ... &Itemid=70
  • po10cy
    September 2008
    YISLIKE that first pic is a beast!!!!

    any video footage of that???
  • lyle
    September 2008
    :shock: id be jet propelled leaving a brown streak behind me if i tried charging that!!! :wink: :lol:
  • JmoJmo
    September 2008
    Nice one Mark, some pics to drool over when I'm supposed to be working.
    I thought the search for waves like this in SA was going pretty well at one stage and you and Pete should get back on that horse and ride it into the sunset. I agree that you guys would charge like the Aussies but I also might suggest that you both should work on not nose diving so much before tackling these waves... ;) Mwah ha ha ha.

    Go back to that first pic and just imagine going over the falls in the middle of the peak. I think that these guys are riding that thin line between life and death. Fricking heavy and insane. :shock:
  • kimon
    September 2008
    To be honest, I reckon a jet-ski (as shown) is most NB for waves like this. Still, there are crazy waves in South Africa that are waiting to be found - think of the West Coast, for example.

    Lank of these Oz waves are found in the middle of nowhere; the really remote places. Also remember that Oz has a coastline how many times bigger than ours. All the same... We gotta get on the program and look!

    PS if any of you owes ever want a semi grom / kook to make up numbers, please let me know. I'm always amped to do stupid things. Nice shots!
  • Heinrich van Rooyen
    September 2008
    ok seriously whats the chances of dying on a wave like that first fat one with Mitch Rawlins on?
  • Spy Dude
    September 2008
    Also Oz has that system called the DOL, where the government pays you to sit on your ass (or go surfing) so the fact is there are allot more OZZIES just parking off and going surfing everyday, thus their conditioning is way better and their mindset for waves like these.

    Mark owns big bay, so dont mess with him :wink:
  • JmoJmo
    September 2008
    Personally I think that the difference between these waves and what we typically find in SA is not the first photos of the sequence but the last photos...
    These waves all stay more or less makeable and open with some sort of spit or foamball pushing out at the end, and that is what lets the riders push themselves deeper and bigger each session. Often I have witnessed waves in SA (or at least around the Western Cape) that will have the same potential on take off but then turn into a mess at the end, or be sketchy in some way. Not many people are willing to push themselves into a monster wave that looks like the end section is going to pinch or close out. I've personally ridden 4ft waves in SA that made me kak myself way harder than 8ft el Fronton or 6ft Box...

    We just need to keep looking until we find the perfect proving ground for mental boogers... I heard a rumour that Mark Clark has got his skippers and is looking for some fellow chargers to invest in a boat. Any takers? 8)
  • kimon
    September 2008
    Good point. Why is that, though? You wouldn't expect all of our potential reefs to be deficient - I reckon it's a chance event whether a reef tapers correctly for a wide end section or not. Well, close to chance, anyway. How can it be that South Africa has so few?

    I know you posted on the Wavescape forum a while back asking if cold water could be a cause, but I dunno - check out the West Oz breaks that hold open. Water's cold there...

    The other thing is that Ozzies are sponsored so they have less commitments and more time to explore and charge and track storms and all that. Isn't it?

  • September 2008
    hey right with you there jmo!

    well ive got another spot in mind that needs some special attention.....bigbay far corner!! haha

    no seriously theres another spot waiting with some good potential which will be covered in the next few months, little bit of a mission but timing, forecast, riders and equipment needs to be spot on for it also.....so stay tuned and im sure ill get some sample pics up unless i can get to ride it while someone shoots it ;)

    anyone got a boat and keen to get into the channel to shoot from the side angle / mission?

    mark
  • JmoJmo
    September 2008
    aaargh, Mark you get me so amped to come back and spend all my time and money on missions!

    @ Kimon: Yeah, I was wondering about that before, but I don't actually think its the case. My best guess is that its a combination of the type of continental shelf we have around the Western Cape, and that we are sitting a little closer than ideal to the source of the swells. Meaning we get the swells when they are a little too grunty and wild and that the storms that made them are often one step behind to mess it all up. hahaha
    The West Australian coast seems to get swells that are further away and therefore a lot cleaner. not so sure about the south coast though. This is where I reckon the east coast guys score, because they get the swells once they have had a little time to clean up. Come to think of it, there's probably a sweet zone along the south coast somewhere between Cape Agulhas and PE that consistently gets big AND clean and is due for some exploration.

    The Aussies have a wicked setup, thats for sure, but it just means that we have to work harder at finding the right waves to charge and then hitting them even if they are not as perfect and photogenic as "The Right"...

    Mark, get on it bro and send me the images! London's doing my head in... :|
  • Luc
    September 2008
    The other thing the Aussies do is have a photog in the right place where he/she can shoot with a shortish lens and create the dramatic images. A big problem in the PE area is that the good breaks are up to 400 meters offshore and sitting with a long lens on the beach sucks. Rumour of a photographer friendly duck is also doing the rounds in the area.
    Luc
  • dsc
    September 2008
    This is an epic thread - one of the best i have read all year.

    Luc, i think you left short on the fact that those photogs are being paid fairly well to do that too. there are also plenty more of them than there are here. here in SA we do it for love and for passion for the sport. we just get stoked seeing the images after the session and being able to enjoy that with the mates you just went surfing with.

    Mark, i will gladly plan a few missions with you. have some more free time these days. guys like you, Aadam, Shmo, Peter, Dre, Daniel, James etc are at that level already and have been for years; we just don't hit those waves all the time. SA is still super underground; its like hearing Dre is here at the moment but what are the chances of tracking his movements and hooking up a surf/shoot mission at some exclusive location?? you know what i mean.. that just entertains thoughts of hardcore "big name brands" sponsoring a vito, duck and petrol for the day. that would be epic..
  • kimon
    September 2008
    That point regarding the shelf may be a winner; I still think it's the mechanics of the reef that's most important though. Waves that spit will do so even when it's stormy sometimes...

    The south coast is a very promising area indeed. You tend to overlook how much of it there is before and during the Garden Route stretch - that is, the bits that are off the highway.

  • September 2008
    love all the hype and keeness coming out... i know its coming summer but maybe all the hype will lead to a few new discoveries this year / next that will take bodyboarding to a new level in SA... would be sick to see SA riders scooping into pits like that somewhere undisclosed in SA...

    how long is dre in town for or is he just being based in Durban, surely he must be down CT side with the family?

    dsc

    sorry sometimes get frustrated with sixty40 as so many nicknames and can never tell who the person really is sometimes...im sure i know you / paddled with you etc..identify yourself please? Ja will let you know if anything solid is going down etc and from around Mid November onwards im going be getting a lot more mission / exploring time also.

    anyone know of someone who can sponsor the sport of bodyboarding R20 000 for a sick duck to explore, shooting sickest stuff, tow ins, tow outs etc? Owes would be getting sign writing all over the duck etc and would be worth there time.... hmmm goto think now

    mark
  • dsc
    September 2008
    Haha! Sorry Mark, its me Damon. dsc represents my initials.

    I think we just need to put the time in. You know, use the web and maps available and then take the hit and miss approach. You can immediately tell whether something has potential or not.

    No idea RE Dre - a mate said he was here and then Kelly popped a comment the other day about New Pier and Dre being on it.

    Kimon i think you raised a very important point there "the bits that are off the highway". We have a lot of highway here and it leaves the coast quite often and we just keep driving.
  • po10cy
    September 2008
    with bellboy firing like it was 2km off the coast and another reef i didnt even know of breaking 40km off the coast of PE (you could see this wave breaking if you stood up on brookes hill) on "big monday", i bet if there were okes with a boat willing to go out we would have gotten some seriously sick footage, next time a storm swell hits, some okes in PE must all pitch in and rent a boat with some ski's attached and go out.

  • September 2008
    Ahhh ok sure as wasnt 100% if that was you Damon... cool least i know now on not just a nickname...

    but ja for sure got to keep an eye on those swell forecasts and find potential spots. Im not very familar with the east coast so would be more of hit it on good swell and light winds story and then map it from there...but ja sounds good! except this week is like a lake... dam.

    have you got any places in mind that havent been pushed yet / charged where you will get to live for one wave....haha.

    mark

    dont think you can hire jetskis or boats sadly...
  • po10cy
    September 2008
    damn...gotta settle then for being towed in by a paddle ski hahahaha
  • sampisampi
    September 2008
    There is a spot around these parts that the local stand-ups been cruizing of late (last couple of years). Aparantly it handles any size... and rumour has it that when the tide is wrong (cant recall if it is low or high tide) they cant surf it cause it gets too "gnarly"... which to my thinking translates to -> good for body-boarding.

    Twiggy was on it a while back... they ran a shot of that session in one of the Zag's a year or so ago...

    The spot and location is as sketchy as they come... with frequent close-calls of the Grey Suited variety, as you can imagine.
  • JmoJmo
    September 2008
    Ok, so I finally decided to post 2 examples of what I'm talking about when it comes to Aus vs SA (or at least Western Cape).
    Below are 2 prime examples of spots with loads of potential for bodyboarders to charge and get great shots. And yet both waves are flawed when it starts to get bigger and more interesting.
    First image: Tombstones - this wave looks insane when it plays nicely (see other shots in gallery), but then every couple of waves, the heavy foamball section you see here ploughs down the shoulder. Any rider who might be enjoying a leisurely slabbing tube would suddenly be rolled into sushi on the rocks below. From what i have seen, the bigger it gets the more this section closes down and ruins the wave. It sucks that an otherwise great wave has this issue, but I think its still worth riding when its mid size and looking good.
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    Second image: Slab (inside Dungeons) - I reckon the takeoff section in this image would match Rawlins wave (first image in this thread) punch for punch in a heavyweight title fight. But just look at that nasty foamball section lining up to mow down any sucker with a hope of making it out. The last thing you want after making a drop into something like this is to see your chances of being rewarded evaporate faster than the meths in your halfloaf. And then of course there is the fact that getting a support boat even close to this wave on a day about a quarter of this size is pretty scary (we tried it once). My best guess is that even Rawlins would avoid a wave that breaks like this...
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    On a lighter note; the motivating thing is that both these waves have already been ridden by local bodyboarders to varying degrees of success, and maybe its just a matter of getting it on the right day, with the right riders and a guy with the right gear to capture it all on film and inspire the whole SA bodyboarding community. But i dont reckon its going to happen unless riders get motivated to work together to organise these missions and to do crazy shit (like buying a boat). The other thing is that when it comes down to it and the swell is hitting, then okes need to have the motivation to head out into the solid stuff instead of following the masses to some protected Wedge that stays 4ft when everywhere else is scary and maxing out.
    Ok so not everyone is into riding heavy waves and I'm sure that for every monster that the Rawlins crew rode, there were 100 boogers getting 4ft barrels elsewhere along the coast. But hopefully we'll see a few local guys get together, organise something great and represent for SA in the same way that the Aussie riders do.

    Wouldn't it be insane to have an Aussie mag like Riptide publish a shot of an SA rider charging a macking SA bomb?

    Aah, back to daydreaming....
  • dsc
    September 2008
    Sam, Zag has now run that wave you are talking about a few times. Very similar shape from the shots that were published to something on the west coast. Twiggy and AVG (shooting from the water) hit up recently for the last big swell. We would dominate it once it got a little out of their range I reckon. Men in grey suite heaven though.

    Mark, there is a spot I would like to look a bit more at, although I will be the last guy getting in at anything over 6ft anywhere anyway, so I will happily shoot. Tombstones does get a little too big from what I have watched too, but it is still surf-able.

    I have also heard rumblings from the Boland about big slabby waves there, deep in grey suite country again although the Boland chargers will take such secrets to their graves I reckon. I have seen a few shots of a point break that resembles Indo perfection there too.

  • September 2008
    Ja seen that spot also in the mag from Sampis side... pretty nuts and heard its a mission to get to also!

    ja sadly a lot of stuff shuts down etc here in SA... but then maybe its just worth the photo even if you dont make it as will still look sick?! Look at the ozzie reef thats just not makeable and yet they just go for fun...see attachment below..

    Damon,

    What area or where you thinking? Problem is owes always try hit up new spots when its way to big and out of control which i dont rate is always the best thing to do... rather get it 4 - 6ft and suss it out and get a feel for it before going into it at 10 - 15ft....its the best way i rate to do it as new breaks you need patience and timing. Ozzies dont go straight into 20ft first time new peak...well most dont, maybe brendon newton..haha. but ja let me know what you got in mind etc and how shootable it is from land / water? I rate the game needs to be picked up here and get past the normal shots in the mag, lots of talent is waitng and lets make the ozzies bib over our waves

    brendon newton

    img1_site.jpg

    mark

  • September 2008
    whose game for this local CT spot? im watching the swells and super keen to hit it up.... if you think you will make the paddle and take it on then let me know.... not for the faint hearted!

    [img]http://www.sixty40.co.za/displayphoto.php?id=6064&t=s&r=524&p=1&s=desc[/img]

    [img]http://www.sixty40.co.za/displayphoto.php?id=6613&t=s&r=524&p=1&s=desc[/img]

    [img]http://www.sixty40.co.za/displayphoto.php?id=6612&t=s&r=524&p=1&s=desc[/img]

    [img]http://www.sixty40.co.za/displayphoto.php?i=6561&t=s&r=524&p=1&s=desc[/img]

  • September 2008
    whose game for this local CT spot? im watching the swells and super keen to hit it up.... if you think you will make the paddle and take it on then let me know.... not for the faint hearted!


    http://www.sixty40.co.za/displayphoto.php?id=6613&t=s&r=524&p=1&s=desc

    http://www.sixty40.co.za/displayphoto.php?id=6612&t=s&r=524&p=1&s=desc

    http://www.sixty40.co.za/displayphoto.php?i=6561&t=s&r=524&p=1&s=desc

    http://www.sixty40.co.za/displayphoto.php?id=6064&t=s&r=524&p=1&s=desc
  • Spy Dude
    September 2008
    Now here is a super dooper secret spot, is nice.
    Mark wants to be a cowboy and all you bitches can be his cowgurls.

    Scars in the South... beachy perfection.
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  • kimon
    September 2008
    Yo Mark!

    I'm quite keen to get a solid session in with some of the big wave legends, so I'd give it a try. I'm amped to push myself but I surf alone most of the time, or with standups.

    Been watching that wave since I was 15 - it gets mad, but only once every couple of waves. A great one will come through and then all of a sudden backwash and sidewash and manic donkey foamballs jump out of nowhere and make it look ultra undigestable.

    All the same it could be cool to have a look from the side and maybe give it a bash?
  • dsc
    September 2008
    I will happily shoot there..

    It does get very temperamental - no two sets waves break the same. that is if i am even thinking of the same wave. it is definitely make-able though. and nearish to a hospital at least.

  • September 2008
    Yo Kimon,

    Ja for sure sounds good, just amped to hit anywave really solid or not solid...but the the ones on the edge is where the fun is! where about you based or where do you normally paddle?

    Spy...

    Thats not secret....haha, you and your secrets, i love it ;)

    DSC,

    ja was thinking making a day mission down to the spot and shoot it from side on / suss out the vibes etc....

    ja seems like some side on washy ones but then maybe you just need to be picky and get a feel for it ;) Look at The Right, think owes were only getting one wave about every hour... so im sure it will be more frequent out there and if you dont try you dont know .... has anyone seen what range it starts breaking good at? 2ft / 4ft / 6ft plus? Ive seen all shots around 4 - 6ft which should just be good tempting fun for its first time and to get a feel for it....oh well the mission will be worth it either way i rate..

    off to bed

    mark
  • JmoJmo
    September 2008
    You guys must go for it, I'm so keen to hear your updates. Although from what i've seen organising a boat will be the best bet because its a hell of a mission to get there on foot. And if this spot turns out to be too elusive then put the efforts in somewhere else. Maybe someone needs to play nice, buy Twiggy a bottle of Klippies, and get him to spill all his secret spot locations?

    And what about tow outs? Still something that we haven't seen that much of in SA and the Aussies are probably already bored of it. I see that there was a session at the Wedge contest which i hope got some pics in Issue 6, and I've heard that there are some guys on the KZN south coast giving it a bash, but still no reall hype or amp about it. So whats happening on that side?
  • dsc
    September 2008
    Well, after JMO's post I think we may be talking about 2 different waves here! The one I am talking about is pretty easy to access but one of those that people wouldn't actually think was a wave unless they saw it breaking or were looking for something. Similarities are that not every one breaks as planned in the head. Wouldn't mind seeing a type of topography of the rock itself it breaks on. It doesn't seem that rideable over 6ft and swell direction is going to play a massive role. At that range it is still pretty heavy and anyone who rides will certainly get my restekpa.

    Kimon - the side angle is probably the best as the lip would look quite dramatic. Super thick. I think you could do water shots too but I have never shot water so would leave that to Mark. Regard to conditions it starts to break in; it needs biggish swell, a low and glassy to summer winds. I have seen a few guys on it before. it just sort of rears up at the last minute although you can see the sets coming. It is definitely not a standup wave either.
  • kimon
    September 2008
    Mark - I'm well amped! I'll send you a PM.

    Damon - I know which wave you're talking about. I'm talking about the one you aren't, although I'm pretty keen for both. Mark's photo's are of a place that's a hell of a paddle offshore which is why I said it would be cool to at least get in the channel and have a closer look!
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