hugh grant
March 2008
As I sit in front of my flickering computer screen, my mind thinks about the troubles of the world and in South Africa particularly. The power outrages that disrupt our daily lives, famine and drought, Death and poverty, all common everyday happenings. I think to myself, how..
How does one live every day, totally aware of our situation and still walk around with a smile on his face. How does a Human being, surrounded by all these politics and government Bullshit, with a sense of impending doom, be happy, even grateful to reside in this country of ours!
Perfect Surf!
A day goes on, long hours of work in a terrible environment, congestion, pollution, aggression and so forth, bad food and high crime rates. Every day is a risk on ones lives! Yet after all this, a 10min drive to your local surf-spot, a quick zip up into your wetsuit and the worlds troubles fade away!
The sea and its waves in particular gives us a reason to struggle on and find a way to cope with all these happenings.
I thank God for that 1st Duckdive of a surf,
The first wave taken of a surf,
and the stoke that lets me remember, I am Happy.