Had some nice right rides, with some pretty steep drop ins.. 
already feathering and about to start breaking. We were about 6m away from it and i was paddling my ass off i was gonna be too late, so i started paddling left to try get to the section that hadn't formed yet, and as i come up to it i hit the bowling section of the swell, as i attempt a duckdive it sucks me up and smashes me under.... I was under for about 9secs and i honestly thought i was gonna drown, But I surfaced next to the surfer, Who was laughing his ass off at me... 
Anyway we had some more awesome waves, I timed a couple of them wrong and had some pretty sick wipe outs. By now it was 6:45 and 2 more surfers got in. and by now it was fully light. and i could tell it was gonna be a hot day.. but i decided to ignore the sun and carry on without putting cream on my face. By 8am the bay was getting too crowded for me. 5....6 people were in. and i prefer to surf alone. so i moved over to the far left hand site of the bay in front of the rock, A little spot called secret lefts( The larger sets end up here, and the sets come through with like a 5sec period between each swell, so you catch the last one of the set to avoid getting smashed by the rest. )and surfed on my own there for an hour or two before 2 people decided to invade my water space 
I put up with them and carried on with my surf. Had some awesome rides, Lots of duckdiving.
Bodyboarding 1,962 views
StJohnLombard_Bodyboarder wrote:
By 4:40 i was in the water ....
By 11am the I could really feel the sun frying my skin but i stayed in the water....
I got out the water at 4pm that evening... Tired sore. and badly sun burnt.....
But all in all it was the best bodyboarding day of my life
Leaving pink, bare and raw sensitive skin on my cheeks and nose.... The slightest touch stinks it 
Was soo bad. All I needed to make me wanna always slap the creamy stuff on.Quote:
LOL --- you absolute nutter!!! That is one long surf!
I feel for ya bud! Been there--was always prideful of having the darkest tan-- continually told by my mother and olds--"You gonna get skin cancer some day--Plus ungodly wrinkles and leathery skin, as well!" Should have invested in Zinc Ointment and Antibacterial First-Aide ointment and retired rich! 
!!
Quote:
Ladies and Gentlemen of the class of ’99
If I could offer you only one tip for the future, sunscreen would be
it. The long term benefits of sunscreen have been proved by
scientists whereas the rest of my advice has no basis more reliable
than my own meandering
experience…I will dispense this advice now.
Enjoy the power and beauty of your youth; oh nevermind; you will not
understand the power and beauty of your youth until they have faded.
But trust me, in 20 years you’ll look back at photos of yourself and
recall in a way you can’t grasp now how much possibility lay before
you and how fabulous you really looked….You’re not as fat as you
imagine.
Don’t worry about the future; or worry, but know that worrying is as
effective as trying to solve an algebra equation by chewing
bubblegum. The real troubles in your life are apt to be things that
never crossed your worried mind; the kind that blindside you at 4pm
on some idle Tuesday.
Do one thing everyday that scares you
Sing
Don’t be reckless with other people’s hearts, don’t put up with
people who are reckless with yours.
Floss
Don’t waste your time on jealousy; sometimes you’re ahead, sometimes
you’re behind…the race is long, and in the end, it’s only with
yourself.
Remember the compliments you receive, forget the insults; if you
succeed in doing this, tell me how.
Keep your old love letters, throw away your old bank statements.
Stretch
Don’t feel guilty if you don’t know what you want to do with your
life…the most interesting people I know didn’t know at 22 what they
wanted to do with their lives, some of the most interesting 40 year
olds I know still don’t.
Get plenty of calcium.
Be kind to your knees, you’ll miss them when they’re gone.
Maybe you’ll marry, maybe you won’t, maybe you’ll have children,maybe
you won’t, maybe you’ll divorce at 40, maybe you’ll dance the funky
chicken on your 75th wedding anniversary…what ever you do, don’t
congratulate yourself too much or berate yourself either – your
choices are half chance, so are everybody else’s. Enjoy your body,
use it every way you can…don’t be afraid of it, or what other people
think of it, it’s the greatest instrument you’ll ever
own..
Dance…even if you have nowhere to do it but in your own living room.
Read the directions, even if you don’t follow them.
Do NOT read beauty magazines, they will only make you feel ugly.
Get to know your parents, you never know when they’ll be gone for
good.
Be nice to your siblings; they are the best link to your past and the
people most likely to stick with you in the future.
Understand that friends come and go,but for the precious few you
should hold on. Work hard to bridge the gaps in geography and
lifestyle because the older you get, the more you need the people you
knew when you were young.
Live in New York City once, but leave before it makes you hard; live
in Northern California once, but leave before it makes you soft.
Travel.
Accept certain inalienable truths, prices will rise, politicians will
philander, you too will get old, and when you do you’ll fantasize
that when you were young prices were reasonable, politicians were
noble and children respected their elders.
Respect your elders.
Don’t expect anyone else to support you. Maybe you have a trust fund,
maybe you have a wealthy spouse; but you never know when either one
might run out.
Don’t mess too much with your hair, or by the time you're 40, it will
look 85.
Be careful whose advice you buy, but, be patient with those who
supply it. Advice is a form of nostalgia, dispensing it is a way of
fishing the past from the disposal, wiping it off, painting over the
ugly parts and recycling it for more than
it’s worth.
But trust me on the sunscreen…
"You only get old when you stop playing." In other words, be wary of living your life to constantly please or at the constant approval of others. = Freedom and Happiness 
and also reapply my Island tribe factor 40 gel to my shnozz.Quote:
skin cancer is a bitch and it ends your surfing life real early... it takes 5 minutes to paddle in a put sunscreen on.