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Big Waves...

  • Elianderthehateful
    May 2007
    So I went surfing this weekend at Betties Baai and scored some realy fuu shorey tubes in the 3 foot region until the wind turned and messed it up a bit. So off I was to Caves to see what's up there, since everything else looked shitty. I was greeted with some really big waves and a biggish crowd. Waves seemed to me to be in the 4-6' region, since the standups were getting some seriously "regop" tubes. The boogers in the water were going ape I must say and the tourists were oohing and aahing at air reverses and backflips...

    So here's my problem...I'm shit scared of surfing Caves at over 4 foot (and 4 foot is really pushing it at caves for me). Other spots don't fase me as much as this place (although I am admittedly a 4 to 5 foot kinda guy at best). So I just couldn't get myself to suit up that morning...

    How do I get over my fear for a certain spot and well, frankly, for big surf...or is it just one of those things that one reaches a threshhold in wave size and then you just "think" yourself out of paddling in?

    I'm not afraid to admit these kind of things, because I believe that I'd only be bullshitting myself by pretending I'm not scared and intimidated by the big ones...

    Any advice or "I can relate, but this is what I did to get over it" would be REALLY appreciated!

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9 Replies


  • May 2007
    hahaha aaah good ole caves, yea the duckdives are killers, the rips are shit and what not, not to mention we saw 2 4m plus sharks on sunday (but didnt get out for wave reasons :D)!!! if caves is 4-6ft there wont be any standups on it im rather sure... anyways switch off the fear element and take a paddle worst case one of those wedges breaks in front off you and snaps your board, robs you off your fins and what not...
  • Werner A
    May 2007
    spoken like a true caves local tiaan says it short and sweet.

    my advice, with recent winter banks there's a rip on the right of the shower (looking at the ocean)that pulls you to the back no problem, when its about 4ft.

    bigger than that, i usualy check out the waves for a few sets to see if there's any lulls to try and sneak through. also try and see if you can stay on the shoulder of the wedging side swell, the side wall kind of redirects the focus of the actual waves energy.

    even if you where an expert in all the tricks you'll still get caught in that dreaded gully by legends after making a bomb right off the peak. in an area of a 100sq/m you'll find yourself on the exact spot staring at a set of foamy lips stacked behind one another, you realise they are destined to break right on your freaking neck.
    funny how one can sort of realise (like a spider sense) by the way the water pulls you...dat hier kak kom!
  • BB4life
    May 2007
    Elianderthehateful wrote:
    So here's my problem...I'm shit scared of surfing Caves at over 4 foot (and 4 foot is really pushing it at caves for me). Other spots don't fase me as much as this place (although I am admittedly a 4 to 5 foot kinda guy at best). So I just couldn't get myself to suit up that morning...

    How do I get over my fear for a certain spot and well, frankly, for big surf...or is it just one of those things that one reaches a threshhold in wave size and then you just "think" yourself out of paddling in?

    The other day me and a buddy came home from school and chilled at his house. We klapped our homework and decided we'd go surf some Kalk Bay, 'cos according to the sites and reports leading up to the day it should be epic (which it wasn't). Kinda big and not breaking too cool but barrelling if you looked hard enough.

    Now we don't surf the reef often, mainly dawnies and the odd dusky (haha, work it out) so to be greeted with what we saw was a little (but not too) scary.

    Well we surfed and got some crappy waves until the hordes arrived, but you know what pal, its all a question of getting into the water. Just like when you start surfing waves that are a little out of your comfort zone.

    Now I'm no charger (I'll be the first to admit it, big waves aren't really my cup of tea), but paddle out and try stroke into a few bombs. If you have the ability (and I'm sure you do judging by what you say about what size you say you surf) then you'll handle it fine after a few beatings. Yes, beatings help aswell.

    It's all about pushing yourself (don't rush it) to doing things that you gradually become more and more comfotable and confident with.

    So next time you rock up and it looks hairy, give it a go! :wink:

    Well thats my story

    Later...

  • May 2007
    Quote:
    funny how one can sort of realise (like a spider sense) by the way the water pulls you...dat hier kak kom!

    hahaha! it brings a tear to my eyes. This actually reminds me of a some faithfull day that a 'groepie' of us where tjilling way on the inside getting sum fatties. And Andrew 'berg' Lord paddled for a wave, but whilst he was paddling for the wave a real 6ft monster reared its ugly head from the depths of the ocean and equiped himself with a dandy piece of sidewall. Needless to say all us had our heads down and motorboated to save our lives. hahaha, but berg just having paddled for the previous wave (and missing it :D ) wasn't so lucky. hahaha and I still remember taking a last peak back before I went through the face. And there was berg paddling like a madman to get on the otherside of the sidewall. Hahahaha All of us burst out laughing and berg reappeared to the surface after a good wopping. haha it was the funniest shit ever. Anyways he survived and everyone (including berg) had a good laugh.
  • Elianderthehateful
    May 2007
    LOL!!! Some cool stories... yeah it seems that it might actually be 70% mental in that you allways envision the worst case scenario as opposed to the possibility of just going in and having a blast...

    I think that I need to start surfing caves on some smaller days and start getting to know the spot a bit better so that I can build up some confidence in knowledge and experience. Quite obv. I guess, but sometimes you just need other people to put things in perspective for you...

    Thanks!!!
  • Elianderthehateful
    May 2007
    Oh, and it's really cool to see that you guys aren't a bunch of righteous a-holes laughing at the "small wave charger"...

    The last thing this sport needs now is a jock mentality!!!!
  • Chinnychinchin
    May 2007
    No-ways bru, I'm with you on that Caves vibe, that place just creeps me out.....I've been hammered and worked and then hammered again at that spot. It's just a freakish wave of death thats totally unpredictable, if you don't drown, something might eat you.....You'd be riding a sweet 4 foot wedge getting some nice ramps then boom! out of nowhere giant, killer clean-up sets from the deep, rear-up to smash you to pieces.....Nah, I'd rather leave that spot to the laaities and the mull locals, plus when it's nice and fun, it's always crowded with grumpy stand-ups who like snaking people.
  • JmoJmo
    May 2007
    Everything can be overcome with some good ol' fashioned logic:

    Work your way up from smaller to bigger size surf.
    Likewise, ride a spot on smaller days before you ride it big.
    Regularly push your comfort zone until you get used to it (and start to like it).
    Look for channels, sets, banks, rocks and other spot tendencies.
    Use markers on the beach to help keep your position.
    Etc, etc, this sort of approach helps keep your mind on top of the situation and keeps you thinking.

    And in the wise words of the Hitchhikers Guide to the Galaxy:
    Don't Panic

    :shock:
  • StJohnLombard_Bodyboarder
    March 2009
    I used to be the same, i had 3 beach breaks that i was comfortable surfing at any size. size has never really phased me that much, it actually stokes me more than scares me, but i always has this fear of paddling out at nahoon reef.

    Nahoon reef has the most fatal shark attacks for a single surf spot in the world, and the paddle is laaank long. so the whole setup was rather sketchy for me, but one day it was looking perfect. glassy, 4-5ft clean clean walls, and about 6 oaks out, so i bucked up the confidence and took the paddle.

    the paddle is easy, you paddle on the outside, so no duckdiving really. but i kept looking down, as the water was lank clean, and there was shadows from the boulder reef, kinda creepy. once i was finally out, i took a small one the no one else really wanted, it was a nice fun ride. as i came off i turned around and started paddling again. then once i was out again, a nice looking 5-6 foot one was forming, and a stand up started paddling for it, but at last second he pulled out, and i quickly rushed for it, paddled my ass off and got on at the last second, but i was a second too late, the lip took me down, and i took a nose dive into the depths, water moving everywhere pulling me and tugging me around, finally i surfaced facing the shore....
    as i turned around i realized i was on the inside, and a set was heading my way... i had no way out, i took 2 on the head, and finally got back on the outside.

    after all the drama, i sat on the outside for 5min catching my breath and calming down abit.. once i was okay, i paddeld back to the other oaks, and waited for another set... a set came in and the first 2 were taken, and i got the 3rd, it was a perfect drop, fun ride and a few spins at the end, i felt really stoked after that and paddled back.

    i spent 2 hours surfing reef that day, and had the time of my life! all my fear was gone and to this day it is one of my fav spots.
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