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Author: Nicholas Kruger

2nd January 2007

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………Hawaii………

As a kid you’re amazed by it, as a teenager you dream about it and as an adult you try forget it, whilst slaving away in front of your computer 9-5 every day in some crappy job. But for a lucky few the dream becomes reality ………and yes we might not have a secure job, money in our wallets every day, a house or even a car, but we are with out a doubt alive with excitement! This is your life, there is no second chance‘s, no next times or maybe tomorrow’s its now or never, its time you grab life by the horns!
Fifty years from now when I’m gray and old sitting in my arm chair enjoying a nice Cognac with my grandchildren huddled around me. I can tell them some of my amazing adventures and tales of far away places, friends I’ve made and the memories I will always cherish , thus inspiring them to reach for their dreams. My parents have always pushed me to live my life and enjoy it and I thank them for that, but at the end of the day it’s your choice! And while I might not own a car or even a house I can honestly tell you I’m Living My Life!

Back on the North Shore things have been creeping along at a snails pace, the sand slabs have yet to be pushed out and the swells have yet to arrive! Although I must admit we have had a few good days with some fun ramps at O.T.W a few poundings at Kieki and one or two barrels at Pipe. With a big swell due with in the next two days, we can only wait and look to the horizon in anticipation for the first
Signs of life brewing in the Pacific…….

Things were a bit tough in getting started out here, accommodation costs round the same as running a small country and food is not far off it too. Thank goodness for the “ Maika’I ” discount card which Foodland so kindly gives to any Tom, Dick and Harry. On the North Shore there is basically only two things you strive for, one “Surf “ and two the all inspiring “Plastic Maikai card!”. It’s like the most prized reward any one person can receive, no more paper shit , you’re a somebody now and every one must bow down to the power of the plastic! Mark (Watts) congrats on being the latest member to have received this honored reward, we’re proud of you my son…..Proud!

As the sets rolled in over the reef, everyone gazed in amazement at the sheer power and beauty that is Pipe. Neels Smit was one of the hundred or so people transfixed by the magic before them and in an instant his mind came crashing back to reality. A cruel twist of fate sent a wave careering high up onto the shore, with it she took the hopes and dreams of a little kid. Neels was devastated , lying in a puddle of salt water lay his Sony video camera. R25 000 worth of plastic………. “Gone!”

The South African crew has just been growing and growing out here. Oros and he’s minune of goons ( Mark Watts, Mark Macarthy and old Rob, the gray haired fellow) pulled into town about a month ago ( Jokes boys , you guys are legends) , with Darryl Nelson following a week later, this is the man‘s 12th session in a row….Respect! And there’s only one place to stay if you drink Castle and know what a braai is. Brandons pad…..A.K.A the unofficial consulate general of S.A.

Some magic started brewing late one night out in the Pacific and by morning the horizon was alive with activity. Down at Pipe things were going crazy! Backdoor was revving on all 6 cylinders and awaiting any one who dared take her on! While Off the Wall was just plain mad, death sets every were!
A few brave souls did take on Backdoor and two of them happened to be representing S.A. Rob and Attie weren’t about to let some killer sets get in the way of their happiness. Both charged with little thought of consequences. Rob taking some bomb close outs and one heavy wipe …….a roll gone wrong. It looked perfect as he launched of the on coming section, mid flight and half rotated things went wrong. The bottom just dropped out and mutated into some ugly double up beast just hanging long enough ….before striking a vengeful blow of power that drove Rob hard and deep into the reef. Attie paddling for a bomb set got hang up a bit to long , before plummeting top to bottom on a solid beast. Bouncing hard of the bottom he’s board went flying in spectacular style as he awaited his punishment, the entire beach erupting with a loud “Oooooooo!” . Still not sure if the “ Oooooo” was for the fact the man just took a beating or cause he happened to have dropped in on a local! Lucky enough to get away with just a stern warning, unlike some poor dude a few days later that Mark saw get his teeth kicked in.
Unfortunately there were no photo’s from that day. Lisa was temporarily unavailable……Work.

The Riaan status is as followers…..

Due to unforeseen circumstances the man has been plagued with injury upon injury, mainly round the foot area. Bali was the motor bike accident, Oz was the silly side walk advertising board that dam near took his one toe off , Fiji was….. Something or other , I don’t remember. Now Hawaii has delivered yet another blow to the poor man….first starf infection ( This shit ain’t no joke, be careful you get it from the water and can effect any one) then came the flesh eating bacteria! The good news is he’s back up and more importantly back in the line up. First session was down at Kieki the other day with just about the entire South African crew out. Super fun.


I have one last word for you “Insurance”, three days after Neels’s 25 grand mistake he was back in action. With a new and improved piece of plastic. Like a machine every day from sun up to sun set the man can be found shooting down at Pipe for he’s new DVD! With already some sick clips of the S.A. boys both at home and here this promises to be on epic vid. Keep a look out for it in the new year.

A big congrats goes out to Attie who too has just received his plastic Maikai card! Whooo Hooo, you da man!

And on that note I wish you all a merry Christmas and a happy new year.

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