Oh my gosh... IT’S A GIRL!

Author: Peter Lambert

26th August 2005

On Thursday the 18th of August, the buoy readings at Cape Point where 28 feet SW swell at 14 seconds and ragged. The wind had just swung from hard cross-shore to North West offshore. The Lines of fire crew made some calls, and at 2:00 pm Ian Thurtell, Aadam Grant, Peter Lambert, James Moolenschot and Danielle Cook assembled at the Crayfish Factory, a notorious right hander that can hold serious swell. The crew assessed the waves, in awe of the very, very big conditions. Guys where calling it 10 to 12 feet conservatively and it was decide that James, Aadam, and WP Ladies Rider Danielle would paddle out, and attempt to ride some of the few makeable waves that where coming through, while Peter would shoot video and Ian would shoot water photos.

Danielle, after paddling out without incident waited apprehensively for and hour while Aadam had a few bombs. What happened next set the stage for a landmark in South African woman's bodyboarding. According to Aadam, Danielle was sitting right next to him and said that she was really eager try a wave, and Aadam got her to paddle with him into the zone... Just then a nice solid set reared up on the horizon and Aadam said "GO!" and they both paddled for it. They both pulled back and the next wave came through and Aadam rode it leaving Danielle out at the back all by herself.

Danielle stroked into a 10 footer, airdropped twice, and barely made bottom turn into the barrel, before being obliterated by the foam ball. The pictures speak for themselves, but what I can tell you is that the impact pulled her leash clean off her arm and the currents washed her board away into oblivion. Ian and Danielle opted to share Ian's board and had to paddle in through huge Witsands Shorey.

Despite the experience Danielle was all smiles and determined to give it another go when the heavy conditions would next present themselves.

Ian Thurtell was dispatched to ask Danielle some questions:

Ian: So Danielle what have you been up to lately?

Danielle: Well, lately I have been driven by the urge to make as many mission to different spots as possible, mostly because I love road trips, but also to broaden my wave experience. Between these missions I study fine art and bust out to local bands around Cape Town.

Ian: How long have you been bodyboarding for?

Danielle: Almost three years!

Ian: You have been charging pretty hard lately, not wimping out, paddling out at solid Outer Kom and Platboom. What drives you to paddle out in solid surf?

Danielle: On both those days I felt extremely intimidated but this is precisely the feeling that drives me to paddle out on big days. If I just sat on the beach and watched, I would feel disappointed in my self. Besides this, I can't get enough of the adrenalin rush that comes with charging solid waves, and the feeling of accomplishment that one gets afterwards.

Ian: So, Tell us about last Thursday at Crayfish factory. As far as we know you are the first woman bodyboarder, if not the first woman, to surf the factory, especially at the 12 foot mark. How where you feeling before your paddle out?

Danielle: Intimidated! Extremely nervous! But so amped to ride one of those sizey waves! I had never bodyboarded waves of that size before and had to prove it to myself and the guys that I could do it.

Ian: Tell us about your wave? From what I saw from the water it wrapped pretty hard on to the bowl, which is not known to be gentle.

Danielle: I had been waiting for a wave for a long time, getting more and more anxious. When it finally came I started paddling hard and there was no turning back. The takeoff was very steep and I remember bottom turning hard and feeling the power of the wave under my rail. I was in too deep, when suddenly I felt the impact of the wave on the back of my head. I was held down for a while, but when I came up I was super stoked!

Ian: So when you came up you had no board! Did you find it?

Danielle: Now that was a scary moment! The impact of the wave had pulled my leash right off my arm, and my board was nowhere to be seen. I was so bummed, because we had planed to hit Kalk Bay after the surf at The Factory, and it seemed that I would never find my board. We took a drive down the coast, and found it by the rocks at Misty Cliffs.

Ian: How were you feeling after the surf?

Danielle: Wired and so stoked. I couldn't stop smiling - awed by the size and power of The Factory.

Ian: With charging like this you are pushing the envelope for woman's bodyboarding. What would you say to other up and coming woman bodyboarders?

Danielle: Don't let your fear dominate you. Use your fear and your nerves to push yourself to do better. Never allow yourself to get too comfortable ... if you aren't nervous or scared, then you aren't pushing yourself hard enough.

Ian: Ian Thanks Danielle, keep charging

Danielle: Shot Ian, looking forward to the next session.

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